The Boathouse on Blackwattle Bay

You know a restaurant takes its seafood seriously when you're given a list of 12 different oysters, all Sydney rocks, and all from New South Wales waters. Of course, most of the people who come to this surprisingly formal, grown-up, big-date restaurant have come for the splendid views of the towering Anzac Bridge, the backlit city, and the lights dancing on the bay - and for a certain, puffy, golden signature dish. They may as well call the place Snapper Pie on Blackwattle Bay and be done with it. Keep your options open, however, and you could enjoy a charmingly presented miso-glazed bonito with seared cuttlefish and puffed rice, or a meaty, mighty pan-fried skate wing with oxtail, squid and parsley puree. The only question mark was a slightly burnt flavour from ocean jacket in a duck consomme with abalone: a grill mark too far. As for dessert, if there's such a thing as a flawless baked custard tart, then here it is.