The Bourbon

What was once the adorably seedy Bourbon and Beefsteak is now a multi-tasking drinking and dining venue that cleverly evokes the original's southern roots. That means bourbon-based cocktails in the bar; jazz or New Orleans funk on the small stage; and reworked New Orleans classics in the small but stylish restaurant, from former Becasse head chef James Metcalfe. Oysters are a big order, either with bloody mary granita, or crumbed, crisply fried and topped with a tangy green Rockefeller mayo. Clam and corn chowder is light, briny and creamy, while Creole-style jambalaya is a terrific risotto-like mix of rice, shrimp, chilli, lime, bacon and smoked sausage. An estofada (stew) of Blackmore braised shin was pretty solid going, but pecan tart, coming as a meltingly soft-yet-chewy baton of caramelly, nut-studded sweetness, is a delight. A sure sign that Kings Cross is thinking more of its stomach than its underbelly.