The Californian at Santa Barbara

If there's one thing you can say about Jaime Wirth of Drink'n'Dine, it's that he's ambitious.

For a few years, he and his former partner, the late James Miller, ripped out pokies, bought up strip clubs, revitalised unloved pubs, took on Kings Cross when everyone else had written it off, and frothed over all things American.

But the success of the Norfolk, Flinders, Abercrombie, Carrington, Forresters and Santa Barbara wasn't enough.

Just weeks after buying the infamous Petersham gentleman's club the Oxford Tavern, Drink'n'Dine has opened a new restaurant within Santa Barbara, the bar the pair opened bravely under the Coca-Cola sign - a notorious spot - less than a year ago.

The Californian, a seedily lit 1970s den straight out of Pulp Fiction, steps it up with more poise and direction than the crazy bar that houses it. Santa Barbara's unconventional US/Asian/barbecue mix of creamy cocktails, spicy pizza, Mexican street salad and Coca-Cola chicken can sometimes be a bit odd. It's about being easy, silly, fun and kitschy. The Californian, however, has a more sophisticated menu without being boring.

Chinese lanterns, kitschy Americana art, leather booths, LA cocktails and kimchee ketchup make for some very international indigestion. The cocktails are inspired by the ''LA diet of clean living'' (don't laugh) and are spiked with things such as acai-berry puree, coconut water and aloe vera. And they don't disappoint.

The pick of the bunch is the frothy Sunset Daiquiri (Havana Blanco rum, coconut water, orange, kaffir lime, $17), or - if you dare - the Viagria (red wine, Southern Comfort, orange juice, fresh nutmeg, horny goat weed, $10).

I don't think I've ever recommended a tequila shot before but the house signature - a Quaalude shooter of 1800 coconut tequila and flamed pineapple - is actually quite drinkable.

The focus is still on being a bit fun and a bit silly, but there's some decent bar cred here too.

Food-wise, it's a mix of deep south, LA fash-pack, Korean, Chinese and Mexican, divided into snacks, bigs, tacos and salads.

Skip the tasteless grilled watermelon with jalapeno and smoked salt ($8) and gorge on rich barbecue corn rolled in chipotle and toasted coconut ($8), Korean fried chicken with red dragon sauce ($14), and sweet potato fries that I could eat by the bucketful.

There are two great salads for the vegetarians (ask for the kale, baby corn, radish and pepitas salad to come with tofu, $18), or a perfectly cooked slab of asado beef fillet that is rather oddly draped in tempura onion rings, salsa verde and kimchee ketchup ($24).

Tacos, salt-roasted prawns and smoked pork and cuttlefish with sweet 'n' sour eggplant round out an adventurous menu that pushes boundaries in a do-able way.

The service is super attentive (almost too much so … if you keep asking if I want another drink, you'll have to kick me out for being intoxicated) and the vibe is chilled.

Santa Barbara quickly becomes packed and rowdy as the sun sets but the pleasant mix of first-date couples and well-behaved groups at the Californian means it doesn't get too out of hand.

You can venture outside after dinner to get among the masses at the bar but you might find yourself staying under the red lights of the restaurant like a moth in the summer time.

There's plenty of good food, drinks and company to keep us here long into the night.

You'll love it if … you want a decent meal followed by a rowdy night.

You'll hate it if … you don't feel like being adventurous with food and drinks.

Go for … barbecue corn, Sunset Daiquiri, Quaalude shooter.