The Carringbush Hotel

Old-man pub or fine-diner? The Carringbush Hotel is both and that's part of the allure. In residential Abbotsford this grand old dame remains youthful despite its 142-year history. Squirreled at the rear, past the relaxed bar and memorabilia-heavy bistro, is a rustic exposed-brick dining room, bright with crisp linen and a courtyard view. The service echoes the hotel's sentiment: honest and professional. So too is the menu, with its pages of culinary definitions, a nod perhaps to chef Matt O'Meara's time at Bendigo fine-diner Whirrakee. A brittle zucchini flower comes swollen with salmon, bolstered by three fat scallops and a tri-colour of wasabi, squid ink and flying fish caviar. A tasting plate of duck liver pate, chicken galantine and flawless scotch egg is impaired by a cloying dressing; better is wagyu scotch fillet, perfectly paired with dauphinoise and a lightly smoked pork belly salad. For dessert, poached plums are heightened by zesty lime yoghurt and macadamia shortbread.