The Catbird Seat Bistro

The Catbird Seat Bistro at East Brisbane opened quietly in June this year with no clever PR release, gala opening or social media campaign, but, despite the lack of de rigueur opening hoo-ha, this quiet achiever has been garnering plaudits from critics and diners.

Operated by husband and wife team James Guldberg (kitchen) and Erin Jordan (floor), the restaurant's name is a term that came into general use in the US in the 1940s. Adopted from a character in a short story by James Thurber, "catbird seat" refers to being in an enviable position - similar to "sitting pretty".
 
This is Guldberg's first venture as owner-operator but his experience includes time at Piaf, Sardine Tin, The Survey Co and Aquitaine.
 
I've always enjoyed his food - there's a certain elegance to his economic treatment of produce, the way he extracts the most from it while wasting nothing.
 
The menu is in true bistro style and heavily European; from ingredients (speck, sauerkraut, poussin, duck neck), to technique (confit, smoking, preserving, braising). Organic goat from local producer Siwa is bought whole and broken down, charcuterie is cured in-house and bread is baked on site.

With just 40 seats, the bijou bistro is intimate - diners nod as newcomers enter, conversations are shared and the soft lighting, soulful French soundtrack and tealight-lit tables add to its charm.

A raised open kitchen offers a window for diners to observe the serious, methodical and unhurried work of Guldberg and his team, while an affable Jordan (also ex-Piaf, Aquitaine) works the tables with equally professional aplomb.  
 
On two visits, armed with sharp appetites, we managed to eat through a good portion of the appealing menu.

While perusing the wine list we tried that day's special of rillettes; often too dense, bland and fat-heavy, but here light and properly seasoned.

Also from the snacks menu, a riff on a Scotch egg is the perfect bar food - soft yolked, coated in crisp semolina breadcrumbs (from their own bread), fried and served with a swirl of smoked horseradish aioli.

Shreds of pork jowl on thin rounds of baguette with provolone and a little dab of raspberry coulis are equally good.

On our second visit, Hervey Bay scallop sashimi is a special. The dish of sweet translucent discs with a red onion puree and smoked chilli turns away a little from Europe but is both pretty and a perfect lighter entree.

Heartier are rounds of crisp duck-neck sausage, their salty fattiness relieved by the bitter bite of radicchio and a sweet sauce soubise.

A main of poussin with tiny al dente puy lentils braised in chicken stock is simple and hearty, while another comfort food dish, slow-braised organic Siwa goat, is perfect on a crisp end-of-winter eve.

Robust flavours and rustically plated, it comes with an intense jus and sweet roasted purple, orange and yellow heritage carrots, poached quince and crisp, thin onion rings.

Gnocchi, larger than is traditional, are perfectly light, sauced with a pumpkin puree, with silverbeet, walnuts and a little bitey Romano cheese.

Catbird's wine list, although concise, is interesting with a mix of familiar Australian and New Zealand bottles as well as a nod to France and Italy.

My only criticism would be the unaccountably heavy representation of the Marlborough sauv blancs. Another Sancerre or two would offer a better balance.

There are also two local beers on tap, one from Fortitude Brewing on Mt Tamborine, the other Stone & Wood from Burleigh, in addition to a well-chosen and largely craft beer-based bottled selection.

If your appetite is up for it, sweet (made to order bitter chocolate pudding with berries) or savoury (cheese platter with house-made preserves and breads) offer a classic finish.

The Catbird Seat's food is earthy and honest, and it and the service display a discernible care factor. Filling a much under-represented niche in Brisbane, lucky locals really are sitting pretty.