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The City Hotel

13/20

This City, in office worker central, creates unisex appeal by marrying mirrors, mood lighting and glam wallpaper with chesterfield-style couches, TVs and a pool table. The menu is equally tuned into the feminine and masculine sides of the dining population, offering salads and gluten-free options as well as steaks and burgers. Thinly sliced beetroot and vodka-cured salmon was a little lacklustre but the accompanying potato pancakes and creme fraiche brought the dish together, while the trio of pork - belly, home-made sausage and fillet - was given lift-off with glazed apple pieces. Neat portion sizes mean there's no danger of blowing the diet.

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