The Civic Hotel

This Art Deco icon has a long, curved bar, yellow-tiled walls and brown leather booths. But with a sprinkle of feta and lemon zest Eleni's takes diners to the shores of the Aegean. All the standards are here - moussaka, falafel, spicy lamb meatballs. The stuffed vine leaves starter is a long row of little creamy, moist soldiers. The three-cheese filo pie could be crisper but the lamb shoulder on a bed of tomato orzo (risoni) is generous and satisfying. The single dessert (aside from a lemon ice-cream special) of chocolate baklava is perfectly sweet and sticky, accompanied by bulbous figs.