The Counter

Small, cute, with a gorgeous window display of cakes: hardly the destination for fish stew, you’d imagine. Chefs have their urges though and the owners happily indulge cook's whims, resulting in a diverse menu. The stew has a zesty broth, humming with juniper and star anise, as well as mussels, scallops and fish. Pretty tarts might contain goat’s cheese and tomato; or salmon, ricotta and dill. Make a spectacle of yourself by squeezing and bumping your way between tables and counter stools in the tiny space to select treats such as thickly iced chocolate-and-whisky cake. There’s also a courtyard which catches lunchtime sun.