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The Courthouse

The Courthouse, restaurant, North Melbourne.
The Courthouse, restaurant, North Melbourne.Supplied

14/20

Pub dining$$$

Expect the unexpected at the staid-looking Courthouse. More than a year into the head chef role, Zoe Birch is spreading her wings with an oft-changing menu that celebrates the here and now. Entrees and mains revolve around seasonal meat, seafood, poultry and game - used thoughtfully, presented playfully. Sometimes Birch's approach is whimsical, as in a tuna wasabi entree where a waiter is needed to explain that the 'mushroom' is conjured from sous-vide apple. A main of 'honey duck' might offer the breast poached in jasmine broth plus a confit-cooked crumbed wing, duck neck sausage and a smattering of pomegranate seeds and borage flowers. Intriguingly there's also gingerbread (more a dark, moist cake). There's some crossover with the bar menu. plenty of beer-friendly morsels such as barbecue lamb ribs, and smoked cheddar croquettes. Simple, generous desserts such as trifle with fruit jelly, custard and a crumble topping will help land you back on your feet.

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