The Crimean

If the comrades had been permitted to have this much fun, and had eaten and drunk half this well, the wall, surely, would still be in place and the Kremlin would be rocking. The clever souls behind this operation have played witty and wondrous games with bleakly seductive Commo imagery and have winkled out some seriously good tucker from an era that time often tries to forget. The dumplings are sensational; notably, beef and pork pelmeni with sour cream and paprika butter, and potato and quark vareniki with roasted onion puree, rye crumbs and orange zest. Try, also, astounding wagyu pastrami with pickles and sour cream, and marvel at pickled beetroot with smoked feta and walnuts. Mains, predictably, are substantial. pig out on poached pork neck with prunes and lentils, or go the hot-smoked ocean trout. And pudding? Perhaps poached apricot on a ginger biscuit with apricot and ginger curd, Angostura jelly and rye ice-cream. Revolutionary.