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The Deanery

The Deanery Article Lead - narrow
The Deanery Article Lead - narrowSupplied

13/20

Contemporary$$

After a change of ownership in 2010, this large, longstanding laneway restaurant has become a cordial and hospitable venue for drinkers, diners and those having a bet each way. The same easygoing, well-priced menu runs in the ground-floor bar with its hideaway booths and in the mezzanine dining room, a comfortable, quiet zone flanked by wine cages. Lamb rolls work as drink nibble or entree: shoulder meat is curried, shredded and wrapped in brik pastry to create a bite both crisp and luscious. There's an emphasis on charcuterie and steak (the pork and chicken sausage is a juicy delight), but vegetarians are also showered with love in the form of a rich, intense mushroom souffle accompanied by a jug of gooey fondue cheese. Desserts are simple and fun: hazelnut and chocolate three-point sandwiches feature nutty meringue sheets layered with chocolate and cream. Unassuming but impeccable service underscores a solid city experience.

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