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The Deck

13.5/20

European$$$

What cards will you be dealt by this particular deck today? You might get lucky, if seated on the Southgate top-level deck when the breeze is light and Melbourne's CBD view is on show. Or luckier still to begin with house-made pappardelle tossed with mushrooms, garlic oil and parsley, topped with peppered pecorino cheese. Other starters, such as sashimi yellowfin tuna crudo plated with finger lime caviar and mint vinaigrette, are more ambitious but may pack less punch. Mains include thick slices of oven-baked lamb rump studded with lemon thyme leaves, alongside plenty of yellow turmeric yoghurt and jerusalem artichoke puree to mop up, or barramundi with clams. Service can be slow when the pressure's on, but there's an ace-in-the-hand in an Eton mess, layered in a glass with lashings of berry fruit between a base layer of almond-meal frangipane cake and generous dollops of cream, meringues, and a brandy snap soaring triumphantly on the top deck.

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