the devonshire

Mirrors, mirrors on the wall there's a whole collection down one side of this lithe little room, with cunning, noise-dulling panels in smart dark tones along the other. Strategic lighting, clothed tables and solid but elegant wicker-seated chairs instantly suggest class and care. That's borne out in Jeremy Bentley's cooking - a real joy from start to finish. Each dish is a visual excitement - no wonder there are happy snappers at surrounding tables. Fat quenelles of venison tartare are crunched up with barley; pan-fried gnocchi and roasted pear slivers share a bowl with rich fetta cream. Barra pieces are crumbed over with hazelnut pesto, with squid ink and orange puree for extra zing; and a wide bowl of pork belly includes a swipe of smoked potato puree, teeny apple cubes and puree and slim pig's tail cigarillos. The pleasure concludes with honey-roasted plums on a fine slab of prune-y plum pudding, with crumble and cinnamon ice-cream.