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the devonshire

The devonshire has the clean lines and elegance of a smart inner-city apartment.
The devonshire has the clean lines and elegance of a smart inner-city apartment.Supplied

Good Food hat15/20

Modern Australian$$$

Surrounded by love-worn pubs with bad carpet and $10 steaks, this unexpected little restaurant has the clean lines and elegance of a smart inner-city apartment. There’s a fresh spray of flowers at the door, linen-set tables and a collection of vintage mirrors your grandmother would covet. Owner and chef Jeremy Bentley offers Surry Hills locals and fans his personal take on modern European dining. High points include brandade croquettes with deep, real, salt fish flavour and lushly tender pork belly with crunchy soy-braised pig’s tails. A dull fillet of king salmon with lemon puree, fennel a la grecque and mussels was the only underwhelming moment. There’s a great return to form with a perfectly executed, old-school creme brulee, surprisingly infused with tea. Service is light-hearted and informed.

And … Start your night with a game of pool at the legendary Shakespeare Hotel, three doors down.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe
That interesting zone between fine dining and bistro. 
Best bit Surry Hills people-watching.
Worst bit Hidden away.

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