The Sydney Morning Herald logo
Advertisement

The Dispensary Enoteca

14/20

Contemporary$$$

Dispensary Enoteca's quirky, youthful appeal acts like a dynamic tonic for the generally stately Bendigo culinary scene. Inside are insouciant Pop Art posters - Captain America looms over the tiny kitchen - wall-to-wall designer booze bottles and dramatic burnt-orange statement light fittings. Savvy, professional floor staff happily extol the virtues of the encyclopaedic drinks list; maybe a fragrant West Winds gin as an aperitif. The kitchen's heart lies in Europe with the occasional foray into the Middle East. There might be pink, juicy quail playfully teamed with ras-el-hanout spiced popcorn, or blue swimmer crabmeat atop a fattoush salad, elevating naturally gorgeous tomatoes to new heights. Proteins shine, as in a rosy lamb rump with piquillo dressing, braised cucumber and fennel, or a lovely special of seared barramundi and sweet local Whipstick yabbies. White peach and moscato soup with rose sorbet and scattered petals proves that a retro aesthetic with a modern twist can be a beautiful thing.

Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.

Sign up

From our partners

Advertisement
Advertisement