The Dolphin Hotel

It has been seven years since Barhop visited The Dolphin Hotel on Crown Street. And 14 years since Terry Durack visited what was then a "born-again" pub. In that time, much has changed and not much has changed at the same time.

THE BORN-AGAIN PUB IS STILL having moments of being born again. Bits and pieces are constantly updated, the latest being the splendid fireplaces dotted around the three split levels and the many outdoor nooks. Some people predicted the pub was doomed when it relinquished its beer garden in the '90s in an industrial-themed makeover spree. Another makeover five years ago silenced those fears by creating the next-best thing to a beer garden – a sprawling outdoor area on the first floor of the Crown Street frontage. A few touches over the years have brought us to today's Dolphin, a semi-industrial, overly gentrified space with some fairly bland wide-open dining spaces countered by great little nooks and crannies and those wonderful winter fireplaces indoors and out.

THREE BARS SERVE A THROBBING FRIDAY-NIGHT CROWD, although only the dimly lit upstairs bar makes cocktails. You order them here and take them elsewhere to drink. I've been told of a new winter cocktail menu featuring tempting tipples such as Chilean fire water, Chai Toddy served in a mug, Earl Grey martinis and apple crumbles. But the bartender tells us that menu hasn't begun yet. That's odd, because July is smack bang in the middle of winter. And this particular July is feeling particularly wintry. He rustles up an Earl Grey martini (Earl Grey-infused gin, lemon, orange and vanilla, $14) but otherwise we have to stick to the summer menu so we order an espresso martini (espresso coffee, vodka, Kahlua, Cointreau, $14) and the Ike and Tina (spiced rum, sugar syrup, lime, $14). All the cocktails are too thin, lacking both body and oomph. For the next round we move to the wine list, which, surprisingly for a big pub, has some gems such as the 2008 Audrey Wilkinson tempranillo ($9) and 2009 Zilzie sauvignon blanc ($7).

THE FOOD HAS NOT BEEN SPARED A MAKEOVER, with a new menu of grazing plates to suit the transient after-work crowd as well as the quiet-drink crowd. The plates are tapas-sized and come three to a tray. The lamb kofta with mint yoghurt ($8) and chicken-liver parfait with sourdough toasts ($7) are the picks. The chorizo and haloumi with tomato and parsley ($8) is overcooked, the garlic prawns with chilli oil and parsley ($9) are succulent but need more flavour, while the salt-and-pepper soft-shell crab ($10) is moreish. There's still a smart all-day menu and pub-grub dinner.

WHILE MANY TRIMMINGS HAVE CHANGED, Durack's 1996 summation of The Dolphin still rings true: a great born-again pub ambitiously attempting to be all things to all people.