The Goods on Crown

Lace curtains, as a rule, are perilous. The lace curtains that run across the front window of The Goods on Crown could be delightful hipster twee or they could be the product of ancient Aunt Dot's suspicious home decor.

There is probably a limit to how ironic a lace curtain can be so, to the casual stroller-by, this place might not look like much. But inside, with its rough-hewn floorboards, wicker chairs, baskets of apples and bookshelves lined with second-hand books for purchase, it's perfectly charming.

Smooth jazz is the Sunday morning background as young-ish couples and groups crowd the tables. Displayed in the glass cabinet are appealing-looking salads, chopped fresh fruit and Joy's ''famous'' oatmeal biscuits, authentically misshapen with white chocolate ganache filling. For those feeling virtuous there are a slew of smoothies available, and the juicer burrs constantly.

Service is friendly, if a tad slow. However, the discovery of a copy of the 1983 Official Sloane Ranger Diary on the bookshelves helps the time pass. Over Single Origin Roasters coffee - smooth and robust ($3) - we learn it is ''unnatural'' for a Sloane Ranger to do anything out of season. Taking this on board, it seems improper not to order the egg, chorizo and southern spiced baked beans griddle pan ($14.50).

The pillowy, extravagant french toast layered with banana and puddles of maple syrup ($12) goes down a treat, too.

But the griddle pans are the star breakfast item with options including a tomato passata with haloumi and spinach and house cured bacon. Presented attractively on a chopping board, accompanied by a chunky slice of sourdough toast and a pat of butter, it's hearty, comforting and pleasantly spicy fare - entirely natural for the season.

The Goods on Crown Address 253 Crown Street, Darlinghurst, 9357 6690 Open Daily, 7.30am-6pm