The Graham

THERE are pockets of Melbourne that entrance with their beauty; unexpected, underrated pockets, traversed on the way elsewhere. There's the walk along the Yarra at dusk, Birrarung Marr side, culminating with the Federation Bells, rising like a mystic forest of reeds, gently ringing their haunting tune. The restored Sandridge Bridge, strong and steely, a sharp diagonal across the river, fringed by floating sculptures documenting the waves of migration that have made Melbourne marvellous. Or, albeit on a more modest level, The Graham hotel.

Who would have guessed such a noble old corner pub, built circa 1870 with bluestone foundations and rows of glossy green tiles, existed in the quiet backstreets of Port Melbourne, a stately relic from the suburb's rough-and-ready maritime years.

Judging by the spirited groups who congregate here on a Saturday night, plenty of locals, that's who.

Owners Peter and Tony Giannakis were on a good thing when they bought the pub in 2001, ahead of the curve, as the business pundits like to say, aware that Port Melbourne was rapidly changing. They're local boys - twin sons of Greek migrants, who grew up in Middle Park when it was a working-class 'burb and The Graham was a menacing wharfie hangout with a Chinese restaurant out back. As kids, they were warned to stay away from the pub; as adults, they've turned it into a sophisticated eatery with white linen on the tables, sprays of soaring palm fronds and crisp white lilies, and the kind of Euro-influenced wine list that would make a wharfie choke on his lager.

Every restaurant has its quirks. At The Graham, it's the tumbler of water, rattling with ice, ready before you've even sat down. The Giannakis twins are known for their standards - they were joint winners of the The Age Good Food Guide's service excellence award in 2005, and, after 11 years at The Graham, they appear to have lost none of their drive.

Tumbler of water aside, the rest of the Ginnakis' habits are spot-on. They marry eagle-eyed attention with raffish good humour so, for all its designer elegance, The Graham never feels stuffy.

The brothers perfected their style at the erstwhile two-hatted Blakes at Southgate, among other bars and restaurants. Those of a certain generation might recall them at former Bourke Street bar Cafe Le Monde, a slick '80s nightspot where I downed more flaming black sambucas than I care to admit. We've all grown up since then and at The Graham I'm imbibing a 2008 Ronco dei Tassi pinot grigio, on Peter's recommendation. He describes it as ''harmonious, feminine, balanced''. I'll go with that.

Perry Schagen's the new chef here - he arrived eight weeks ago, fresh from the Taxi Dining Room, and also worked at Circa during the Michael Lambie era. Schagen is a sign of the Giannakis' revised ambitions: they want to lift The Graham's culinary reputation.

So how does the food stack up? For a start, the bread's excellent (although not house-made; it's a crusty sourdough from Chimmys). Excellent, too, is a refreshing starter of delicately truffled, divinely light spanner crab, served with salty salmon crackling and slices of radish and nashi pear. Oysters from the Pristine farm in Coffin Bay - whether au naturale, or with yuzu-cured salmon and ponzu dressing - are so fresh one of them cringed at the squeeze of lemon juice.

Not as successful, though, was a starter of foie gras parfait - nothing wrong with the parfait, but the quail terrine and cumquat chutney meant to accompany it didn't; instead, the parfait arrived with a carb-heavy serving of grilled rye sourdough and house-made brioche that wasn't as exciting as brioche can be. Better was an Asian-influenced starter of scallop and smoked eel-filled tortellini, topped with a invigorating, peppery crumble of eel and thyme and served with young leeks, Jerusalem artichoke and miso nage.

A main of tempura, nori-dusted whiting was flawless - five fillets, cooked to perfection, offset by sweet bites of school prawns, tangy coriander and cucumber salad, and an indulgent dish of bonito mayonnaise. Also very good - and beautifully presented - was a main of sous-vide spatchcock breast, topped with brioche garlic crumble and a filo-wrapped drumstick, the plate dotted with sharp, hot bites of roasted chilli glaze.

The chargrilled wagyu porterhouse was first-rate - delicate, rosy-centred slices of meat topped with silky dabs of bone marrow and served with a potato-and-thyme fondant and grilled king brown mushroom. A honey-glazed duck served with an orange-infused jus, baby turnips and rainbow chard could have been brilliant but was too salty for my taste - a pity, since the meat was excellent. A side of Dutch carrots and lentils was also marred by an excess of salt.

As a chronic sweet tooth, I expect a lot from desserts and I must confess I found some of them here, such as the pot-roasted quince with a steamed hazelnut pudding, gingerbread custard and malted ice-cream, lacking oomph (although a couple of ladies next to us were swooning over the chocolate and orange souffle). The best we tried was ''The Graham Eton mess'', an indulgent rubble of meringue, lemon cream, rhubarb and zesty orange sorbet, served in a tumbler, with a flourish of raspberry ''paper''. Still, with service and atmosphere this cosseting, you forgive a few minor shortcomings.

Behind this gracious old pub rise the glacial towers of the swanky new Port Melbourne, but ensconced within The Graham, that brash new world can be forgotten for a time.

Food Contemporary

Where Corner Graham Street and Esplanade West, Port Melbourne

Phone 9676 2566

Cost Starter, $20; main, $38.50; dessert, $16.50

Licensed

Wine An exemplary list of old- and new-world

Owners Tony, Amanda and Peter Giannakis

Chef Perry Schagen

Vegetarian One starter, one main, four sides

Dietary Catered for

Noise Good, but can get raucous when busy

Service Smart, savvy and warm

Value Fair

Wheelchairs Possible, but no disabled toilets

Parking Ample on street

Web thegraham.com.au

Cards AE, DC, MC, V, Eftpos

Hours Daily, noon-3pm, 6-10pm