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The Graham

The Graham Hotel
The Graham HotelEddie Jim EJZ

14.5/20

Contemporary$$$

The proud heritage facade of this Port Melbourne hotel belies the contemporary offerings within. Enter through a side door to find a dining room of linen-topped tables, silk panels and striking light fittings. Perry Schagen's menu delivers crowd-pleasing dishes that are high on technique. A fruits de mer starter, boasting octopus and jamon terrine, hickory-smoked salmon and grilled scampi with a light oyster cream, demonstrates a deft hand at marrying textures and flavours. For mains, nori-dusted tempura whiting gets pep from bonito mayonnaise; lavender honey-glazed duck breast, served with a brik pastry parcel of confit leg, is beautifully balanced. Pastas and a rib-eye for two will suit those craving more straightforward pub fare. For the indecisive, the dessert plate allows you to select your top three, perhaps raspberry souffle, coconut parfait and lemon panna cotta. A worldly wine list and professional, yet warm service further sweeten the deal.

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