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The Grand

Good Food hat15/20

Italian$$$

This corner pub is a Richmond landmark. Behind the Felliniesque decayed exterior, the Grand dining room is sedate and comfortable. With its subdued light, stencilled brown walls, drapes, bentwood chairs and crisp linen tables, it's a favourite with business types and locals. Expect Italian dishes such as gnocchi, pasta, ragu and risotto featuring classic ingredients - truffles, porcini, fennel, gorgonzola, figs - in creative combinations. Owner and executive chef Valerio Nucci draws on his northern Italian heritage for crafted choices of boar, duck, goat and rabbit, as well as chicken and fish. Maltagliata - brilliant breadcrumb pasta with succulent prawns - is a signature for good reason, but other standouts include duck with semolina gnocchi and orange and juniper-sharpened sauce, and baby goat braised in wine to juicy tenderness. Loosen the belt before calling for sumptuous summer zabaglione or in cooler weather, chocolate marquise. Or, hit the pub lounge for a cleansing ale.

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