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The Kent Hotel

The Kent Hotel, restaurant, Carlton North, Melbourne.
The Kent Hotel, restaurant, Carlton North, Melbourne.Supplied

12.5/20

Mediterranean$$

A classy remodelling some years ago transformed an old pub into a model modern version. open and airy with white walls, polished floors, original ceilings supporting noise-dampening acoustic panels and outdoor tables facing a leafy park. The effect is friendly and welcoming, and it feels like everyone in the area has strolled in for a quick bite or a catch-up with friends. Everything supports the air of goodwill - the range of beers, the extended wine list, the switched-on waiters and the choice of dishes on the menu, supplemented by a lively list of specials. The Italian-influenced menu doesn't always live up to the ambience. saltimbocca with a creamy tomato sauce and a scoop of dense colcannon is not an entirely successful cross-cultural effort. A rack of lamb, roasted pink and served with cannellini beans, is a better choice, or perhaps pappardelle with meatballs and cherry tomatoes. Start with something shared (olives, dips, fried calamari) and finish with Italian doughnuts and good coffee.

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