The Little Press and Cellar

WHERE AND WHAT

 George Calombaris has so many strings to his Hellenic bow it's hard to keep up, but it's good to see the trappings of TV stardom haven't led to neglect of his Flinders Street flagship. The bar, previously little more than a holding pen for Press Club diners, had a rev-up last year and it's now a worthy destination in its own right, as well as being a more bank-balance-friendly way to sample his modern Greek and Euro food.

WHERE TO SIT

 It's a sleekly designed space with a wooden bar and wooden tables and banquettes along the opposite wall. All dark shades and long lines, it's a clever space that hasn't been over-designed.

WHEN TO GO

 After the recent launch of breakfasts (weekdays only), Little Press is an all-day affair. Hit it from 7am weekdays; from noon at the weekend.

DRINK

 As food writer Frank Bruni once asked: can you trust people who put pine resin in their wine? You can be the judge by ordering a retsina, or try the bold and interesting international selection of wines by the glass, ouzo and a selection of Greek and other beers.

EAT

 It's a small-plates affair at Little Press, but the previous mezze menu of small snacks has evolved to include a number of little dishes of real artistry. Pickled white peaches with prosciutto, smoked almonds and endive were a standout on a recent visit; fat prawns wrapped in the thin tendrils of kaitifi pastry with skordalia and finished with a touch of puffed chilli and a judicious drizzle of attiki honey, a knockout. Also worth mentioning is the vanilla-marinated kingfish — or the always wonderful taramosalata, served here with chips. And it's certainly worth checking out desserts — the tart and refreshing glass of peaches and nectarine with white sponge and nectarine crisps looks (and tastes) a million bucks.

WHO'S THERE

 It's a tourist destination thanks to Our George's starring role in a well-known TV series, so expect the gawk factor of people hoping to spy their hero as he cooks their food. But there are plenty of locals who know what's good, as well as workers on red-wine-fuelled power lunches, or unwinding at the end of a long day of mergers and takeovers.

WHY BOTHER?

 Because there's plenty of substance beyond the hype.

THE LITTLE PRESS & CELLAR

72 Flinders Street, city, phone 9677 9677.