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The Long Apron

16/20

Contemporary$$$

Dine al fresco with a view of the rolling expanse of lawn or inside where the banquettes smell expensively of real leather. House-made bread with Maleny butter and Portuguese sea salt will sharpen the appetite while you decide how many courses to include in your degustation. We think it would be a shame to forgo the playful take on duck a l'orange - a rectangle of pink breast with duck prosciutto, freeze-dried mandarin segments, tart yuzu gel and blood orange powder with a crumbed duck tongue and duck cracker. Then there's the drama of the Casino sirloin served on a still smoking cedar wood platter with enoki mushrooms and piquillo peppers battered in squid ink tempura. Dessert of deconstructed black forest cake or an Earl Grey teacake with silky tea mousse and pot pourri dobs of rose gel, pomegranate and violet inspired by his gran, are evidence that Cameron Matthews' parents never told him not to play with his food. Jolly good thing too.

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