The Meatball & Wine Bar

The trick to a really good single-product restaurant is nailing one thing that folks will come back for again and again. At this NY-inspired bar there's no doubting the quality of the product, the clarity (and tongue-in-cheek fun) of the brief, and the humble honesty and comfort of the balls. The fitout is edgy and low-lit with a charmingly aged, masculine patina. Start with excellent cured meats and locally sourced mozzarella before choosing beef, chicken, pork, fish or vegie balls, plus an accompanying red, white or green sauce; choose again from a bed of polenta, pasta, beans or potato smash. The classic beef with tomato sauce and creamy polenta delivers on the promise; lemony, dill-flecked fish balls prove that a detour from tradition can pay off. Service is buzzy and informal, and while the Whoopie Mac (ice-cream cookie sandwich) desserts might not float everyone's boat, there's an undeniable vibe of slick, delicious and well-executed fun.