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The Mill House

Michael Harry
Michael Harry

Easy all-rounder: The front bar of The Mill House.
Easy all-rounder: The front bar of The Mill House.Wayne Taylor

Pub dining$$

You might have already had a big night at this venue – it was previously a wild nightclub called The Liberty Social and before that it was De Biers, where many beers were consumed.

The building was erected in 1851, which makes it one of the oldest in the city, and it's been polished into an easy all-rounder the CBD has been crying out for. It's the kind of place where you can spontaneously drop in with a big group or meet up with that RSVP date.

The vast subterranean basement is unrecognisable after an overhaul, with lashings of exposed timber, restored stone walls and some of the best booths in town. These circular beauties are padded like the back seat of a Range Rover, and reminiscent of sitting in a 1970s hot tub.

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The Mill House red sangria, yours from $20 a carafe.
The Mill House red sangria, yours from $20 a carafe.Wayne Taylor

There are half a dozen craft beers on tap, and an old-school happy hour (actually, make that two hours) from 4pm-6pm with $5 house wines and $6.50 pints. Bargain.

Fun additions include two-litre growlers of Young Henrys beer and a series of flavoured "moonshines" – hipstery mason jars of supposedly bootleg liquor. Approach with caution.

The short wine list is well priced and mostly Australian, and cute cocktails have names such as Hendrick Lamar (a fancy gin and tonic) and Hakuna Rumchata. The potentially lethal carafes of sangria are deliciously sweet, and a hotline for a hangover.

Beer is important here, and carries over into the battered fries.
Beer is important here, and carries over into the battered fries.Wayne Taylor
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Peruvian chef Augustin Ortega​ is behind the on-trend, vaguely South American menu with snacks such as beef empanadas, a sprightly kingfish cervice and half a chook with a garnish of "chicken skin crumble", which can't be good for you.

There's also a handful of thin-based rectangular pizzas, a slab of pork belly, some braised brisket and a charcuterie board.

It's smarter than your average pub fare, but let's face it, the food is a side issue as the soundtrack escalates and you consider a round of moonshine shots. Meet you there.

THE LOW-DOWN
Drink this: 
The Mill House red sangria, $32
Eat this: Lamb and feta pizza, $19
Say this: "Is the owner a fan of The Simpsons?"
Know this: Fridays and Saturdays offer $20 carafes of sangria until 10pm.

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Michael HarryMichael Harry is a food and drinks writer, editor and contributor.

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