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The Montague

13.5/20

Sigh of relief. This old corner pub doesn't need a waiter to decode the menu. Thus a starter may be listed baldly as 'baked scallops, spinach, parmesan and lemon'. In fact, the scallops are hand-dived from King Island and the spinach is the earthy English variety. It's just that chef Jonathan Knight likes to keep things simple and fad-free. His upmarket pub credentials (including a stint at Richmond's Grand Hotel) mean he knows the formula. blackboard specials - perhaps wagyu burger or pork and fennel pie - and a more adventurous but well-priced main menu. The focus is northern Italy, with handmade pasta, risotto, and hearty mains. Tender rabbit stew might be enlivened with tangy black olives and pancetta, served with airy white polenta. For dessert, perhaps baby pears poached in saffron syrup, circled by soft fingers of Italian meringue. The vibe - like the food - is relaxed, with the same menu in the cosy dining room and well-worn front bar.

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