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The Moor's Head

The Moor's Head, restaurant, Thornbury, Melbourne.
The Moor's Head, restaurant, Thornbury, Melbourne.Supplied

13/20

Middle Eastern$$

Melbourne has strict rules when it comes to pizza, which matters not a jot to the noisy crowds piling into the Moor's Head for the 'inauthentic' Italian-Lebanese pizza of Joseph Abboud. Slightly puffy yet crisp Italian bases are spliced with Levantine toppings. minced free-range chicken, garlicky baharat, green olives and tahini yoghurt on the Fred the Deaf manoushe (Lebanese pizza); fat prawn tails with a flutter of chilli, coriander and a zingingly good tomato sugo on the Bosphorus pide (Turkish pizza). Palate primers include a colourful jumble of pickled vegetables and olives, thin strips of bastourma (air-dried beef), and smoky eggplant dip, while lively salads - maybe rocket with spicy shanklish cheese and sweet raisins - are no mere afterthought. The pizza ventures into dessert territory, too. a crisp pocket oozing Nutella will please kids of all ages. Ever-friendly waitstaff add to the convivial atmosphere.

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