The Morrison Bar and Oyster Room

Oyster bars and Sydney seem made for each other: summer, sea, wine and aphrodisiac delights. So it is with glee that I hear the Brooklyn Hotel has been reinvented as a New York-style brassiere with a flight of top chefs and an oyster room.

From the street, the big plate-glass windows with black venetians recall the cover of the Doors' landmark album, Morrison Hotel. Inside, the place brims with a Hard Rock Cafe vibe. Michael Jackson is playing loudly and it looks like date night, with couples sitting along the window, street-watching. There is wood panelling and flattering lighting, potted plants and tabletops covered in colourful tiles. On each table sits a copy of the newspaper-style Le Journal de Wine, with quips from Dorothy Parker and Winston Churchill on the virtues of drinking champagne.

The talent in the kitchen means food expectations are high. The philosophy of executive chef Sean Connolly (Astral, Sean's Kitchen) is to source quality local produce and cook it simply: on the shell or bone. Also in the kitchen are Oliver Carruthers (Bambini Trust) and Michael Robinson (Quarter Twenty One). Wait staff, though, are wet behind the ears: I rescue my not-quite-finished cocktail from overly keen waiters but my companion isn't as vigilant and has his undrained Manhattan whisked away.

That is forgiven as we eye the blackboard oyster menu, which lists some 30 varieties including Pacific and the big, meaty Angassi. I can never resist the creamy plumpness of rock oysters and the Morrison has 17 varieties.

We order a mixed dozen of these briny mouthfuls with the sexy reputation - from Tuross Lakes, Wapengo Rocks and the Clyde River. Those who like to watch can sit at the bar and see their oysters shucked to order. Or if you want to get experimental, ask for a wine pairing for your chosen variety.

It is hard to move on from oysters, but the crab-and-lettuce tacos sound intriguing: morsels of meat wrapped in iceberg lettuce dressed with a chardonnay vinaigrette and served with pearls of caviar. Sounds great but, in reality, it's underwhelming.

The split king prawns are another matter. Marinated in garlic and Pernod and cooked shell-side down over coals, they are finger-licking brilliant. Part of the enjoyment is tearing the smoky flesh from the shell.

The grain-fed pork chop topped with ''green sauce'' (tasty mushed spinach) looks lonesome on a big plate with not even a parsley sprig for garnish, but is moist and perfectly cooked, with attractive grill stripes. Possible sides include the tempting triple-cooked-in-duck-fat chips.

These heart-stoppers accompany the ''dry aged'' hamburger: a thick patty of medium-rare mince in a sweet brioche bun spiced with house pickles and chipotle mayo. At $20, it's a good attempt at a classy burger but stops short of being memorable.

For a flavour hit, try the orange chocolate tart. Sharp salt crystals sparkle on top of warm, dark chocolate, while a spoonful of creme fraiche cuts the intensity.

The Morrison is a light-hearted space with no-fuss food and a great drinks menu, perfect for the after-work crowd - and oyster devotees. Bring on summer.

Menu Oysters, seafood and steak.
Value Can get expensive. Oysters, $3.50-$5.50 each; entrees, $15-$30; mains, $20-$35; communal, $48-$90; desserts, $10-$14.
Recommended dishes Oysters; garlic 'n' Pernod prawns; grain-fed pork chop; orange chocolate tart.

THE MORRISON BAR AND OYSTER ROOM
Brooklyn Hotel, 225 George Street, city, 9247 6744
Mon-Wed, 11.30am-midnight; Thurs, 11.30am-1am; Fri-Sat, 11.30am-2am. Licensed