The Norfolk

The grizzled bloke at the workmanlike front bar takes one look at us and points to a doorway at the back. Suddenly we're through the looking glass, where a huge and meaty osso buco pappardelle rubs shoulders with small but tasty soft-shell tacos (a Korean meatball version was introduced as we went to press) and a rich beef cheek pie (let down a little by gluggy mash). This is an ambitious, hip re-boot that hits all the right notes. The interior is eclectic without going overboard, the beer garden fun, the staff relaxed. And the rest of the menu features various specials and intriguing bar snacks.