The Paddington Arms

Roasted bone marrow, black pudding with crumbed pork, braised beef ribs is a long way from the days of Guinness and black-clad folk singers at this one-time Irish pub. Now in the safe hands of the gang from the nearby Four in Hand, this provides another outlet for Colin Fassnidge's distinctive take on nose-to-tail eating, interpreted here by head chef Neil Thompson. The real action takes place in the Tuscany-meets-Wild-West dining room, with its big, comfy booths and potted olive trees. The ploughman's lunch is magnificent, with its prosciutto, pickled egg, pork and chicken terrine, Pyengana cheddar and grilled Iggy's bread making an equally satisfying ploughman's dinner; and the signature braised lamb shoulder is suitably fall-apart tender. Jamon, salt cod and mozzarella croquettes deliver real flavour, but beer-battered gurnard with chips was little more than dressed-up fast food, and salads were unconvincing. Desserts mix old and new, as in a smooth condensed milk panna cotta with vanilla cucumber.