The Panama Dining Room

It may not be easy to access, but once you've negotiated the capricious grit of Smith Street and the shady-looking stairwell, the pay-off here is immediate. With its sexy, low lighting, loft-like spaciousness and killer views, it only takes a second to drop down a gear - and the bar just screams pre-dinner cocktails. A recent refresh has lifted the space and new chef Bryce Edwards' Euro-centric menu has brought a welcome injection of energy with it. Edwards has a knack for artful plating, as evidenced by a dish of pleasingly citrussy marinated kingfish, with fine discs of radish, quenelles of smoky creme fraiche and a smattering of salt-pop avruga. Generous mains might include New Zealand king salmon with crisp baby squid and sauce gribiche or satisfyingly rich, slow-roasted lamb provencale. Sheep's milk yoghurt panna cotta may miss the mark a little, but the cheese selection is solid and there's a great list of post-prandial cocktails for those who prefer their desserts in liquid form.