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The Point Albert Park

The Point Albert Park Article Lead - narrow
The Point Albert Park Article Lead - narrowSupplied

Good Food hat15/20

Contemporary$$$

Beef is still king here. Dry-ageing cuts are displayed liked crown jewels in a glam glass refrigerator by the entrance, proving that steak remains a focus, despite a change of ownership. Front-of-house staff, led by Brian Lloyd (ex-Vue de Monde) and sommelier Jane Semple, run this lakeside restaurant with velvet smoothness. Lunching ladies and business suits by day and couples by night are seated at tables with ironed linen and sparkling glassware. Chef Justin Wise balances the beef-centric menu with modernist cuisine - slices of marron tail with an array of rabbit (including rack, loin, leg, kidney) and dehydrated cherries. Also consider succulent salt-crusted rock flathead with smooth-set lime milk custard, or a just-pink venison loin with celeriac and palm heart. The single hot slate tile of three different steaks - grain fed, grass fed and wagyu - is a beef-buff's tasting plate, although the more finessed dishes tend to have the edge. Finish with a delicately sharp lime souffle with yoghurt sorbet.

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