The Press Club

The Press Club, as Melbourne has known it since 2006, has been downsized to a tight 10 tables and up-cycled to the most ambitious of fine-dining restaurants. All glitzy cocktail-lounge glamour with metallic shades, smooth leather banquettes and even smoother service, George Calombaris is making a grand statement with Press Club Mark II. His ultra-modern Greek flagship is all about whimsy and theatrics, from a mini Hills Hoist pegged with dehydrated chips ’n’ dips to a saganaki martini fizzing with liquid nitrogen. An avgolemono (chicken-lemon soup) with egg white spheres, seared abalone and gelified consomme noodles stays true to the hearty beauty of the original, although other reconceptualised Greek classics such as a clever, sweet moussaka with peanut brittle and slow-cooked lamb neck are not always convincing. With table-side attention from the chefs and interactive flourishes such as the ‘smashing plates’ dessert with a sheet of meringue hiding berries and sorbet, this is a blockbuster dining experience. 

And … Enjoy the top-of-the-range Zalto wine glasses.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Luxury cruise cocktail lounge.
Best bit Spot on service.
Worst bit The eight–course degustation can take up to four hours.