The Restaurant Pendolino

Storms may rage or sun beat down, but up here behind the wooden venetians, temperature and time of day or night are forgotten. This is a cocoon of moody Italian gentility; dark wood floors and banquettes, snowy linen draping tables. Named for an olive variety, Pendolino has a penchant for matters EVOO. Three different oils arrive as you begin - one spiked with lemon, a fine foil for the salted-flecked bread. A starter of veal and pork polpettine cooked in lemon leaves sets a high standard but most are here for the ultimate in comfort, a bowl of Pendolino’s pasta. And what pasta it is. Whether house-extruded bucatini with black tomato and cuttlefish ink sauce, or chitarra spaghetti with barramundi, prawns, chilli and capers, the slippery strands are accurately al dente and the sauces deeply flavoured. This is Italian-accented food cooked with soul and excellent produce.

And … Love the oil on your table? Buy some to take home.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Trattoria comfort in fine-dining surrounds.
Best bit Fantastic wine list, menu worth many visits.
Worst bit The arcade surrounds.