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The River Moruya

Good Food hat15/20

You'd never guess that a simple timber cottage on the banks of the Moruya River was home to some of the South Coast's best food. Half dining room, half balcony, the dining space is designed around the river view to the hills beyond. The menu combines good produce, great technique and a rigorously house-made approach - right down to the house-cured ham in the pea and ham soup. That soup is a brilliant pea green, smooth and minty, dotted with addictive little goat's cheese beignets. Local oysters are shucked to order and served unadorned, allowing their salty minerality to shine. Ling partners happily with silky prawn tortellini, while the accompanying carrot puree and salsa verde make you want to lick the plate clean. Slow-cooked beef cheek and rump fill a pie of flaky pastry (house-made again) and a creamy nicola mash top. Three ice-creams and sorbets, including a fabulous salted peanut caramel version, round things off perfectly. BYO Friday only.

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