The Riverview Hotel

A fire glows warmly in the fireplace, sculptural light fixtures ensure the vibe is 21st-century and the rugby on the plasma is turned down so that music prevails. One of the three menu blackboards is devoted entirely to gourmet pizza so there's nothing for it but to try the langostino espanol, a happy jumble of crustaceans, fiery jalapenos and spicy chorizo. The 'famous' Sunday roast could do with a rethink: while the Cowra lamb is flavoursome, the $28 dish is so nouvelle it'd satisfy only the skinniest peninsula fashionista. Opt for steak and a carefully constructed tower of hand-cut chips instead.