The Sailors Club

For years this glassed-in jetty was Pier. Then it became The Sailors Club, all sunshine yellow with a jaunty nautical air (although we're not sure the waiters' yellow jeans are strictly ship-shape). The menu may have slipped its more formal moorings, but with the talented Nic Waring still in the kitchen, the mostly fishy cooking is as snappy as ever. Confit ocean trout is thick and oily-rich against tangy zucchini puree and pink grapefruit, and jamon serrano meets its match with oozy ripe figs. Kingfish with roasted mushrooms and a marvellously perfumed broth ups the main course ante, while a brick-flattened chook with a celeriac remoulade, albeit a bit plain-Jane, works wonderfully with an excellent leaf-salad side. Waring's desserts shine as brightly as the surrounding harbour lights, such as a postmodern tiramisu, all creamy, nitro-frozen coffee top, dark chocolate cake and subtle salted caramel. A successful change of tack.