The Smith

Tossing up between tacos and Thai, or bar snacks and a long lunch? This refreshed corner pub, just off Chapel Street, could be just the ticket, sporting a bustling front bar, relaxed restaurant, and service that's anticipatory without being intrusive. The kitchen has assembled a hit-list of on-trend tastes. Interestingly, although Michael Lambie won fans with cutting-edge Asian cuisine at Taxi, here it's the Mex-US tastes that best hit the mark. Soft-shell crab tortillas trump kingfish sashimi; earthy ossobuco fajitas outshine tempura parcels of betel leaf and prawn. You could happily stick to share plates, but you risk missing a menu star, a mod-taverna marvel of roast lamb shoulder with salty crisped skin, pull-apart flesh and garlicky skordalia. It doesn't push boundaries - and is all the better for it. Dessert offers one last nod to current cravings, with a jumble of dulce de leche, orange ganache and chunks of chocolate brownie.