The Survey Co.

An unprepossessing laneway is the first chapter in the series of discoveries that are offered at this inner-city restaurant and bar. As you enter, washes of light reveal bar seating clad in cork and tanned leather hides with glimpses of the building's historic fabric. The unusual layout creates intimate spaces opening to a courtyard, surrounded by a tapestry of urban textures, and softened by filtered light and plants. The arrival of chef Nick Stapleton has brought a sense of adventure to the menu, with small plates like a riff on Chinese flour buns, here filled with slow-braised pulled lamb, jerusalem artichoke and agave syrup, and a salad of cos lettuce hearts and radish, dusted with shaved frozen foie gras. A dish of duck breast reveals perfectly cooked pink flesh but seems at odds with its companion succotash and jalapeno gastrique. Desserts are playful takes on classics such as treacle dumplings, tweaked with cinnamon ice-cream and jauntily plated. Eclectic music and informed service add further appeal.