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The Swinging Cat

Callan Boys
Callan Boys

The Swinging Cat's Pete Fischer makes a classic sazerac.
The Swinging Cat's Pete Fischer makes a classic sazerac.Brendon Thorne

American (US)

Why does every new bar in the CBD need a hidden entrance? I would like to locate the next latest, greatest gin-joint without needing a Goonies​ map, compass and three days' worth of sustenance bars.

To be fair, you don't need a rodent's knowledge of Sydney laneways to locate The Swinging Cat. However, if you didn't know the basement bar's entrance was inside the same bit of King Street real estate housing Subway, you could well end up inside the "King's Lounge" pokie-room next door. Like I did.

Swinging Cat owner Pete Fischer (ex Zeta Bar, Hemmesphere​) is a fan of New Orleans. The slinky, dark interior has been modelled on The Big Easy's French quarter, complete with gas-lit street lamps and artwork sourced directly from Louisiana's largest city. There's a poster of trumpets and trombones arranged in a formation that, at best guess, is some sort of reproductive system (on closer inspection it's actually captioned "the birthplace of jazz" and my best guess was the correct one. Stay classy, NOLA.)

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Grilled cheese and wagyu toastie.
Grilled cheese and wagyu toastie.Brendon Thorne

Number 57 on the list of things I like: the sazerac​. Created in New Orleans, it's one of America's oldest cocktails, involving cognac, rye whiskey, bourbon or a combination, with Peychaud's​ bitters, absinthe and a dash of sugar.

Number 46 on the list of things I don't like: adding ingredients to classic cocktails for the sake of it. There are four types of sazeracs on the Swinging Cat menu, with more creations in the pipeline. The traditional ($18), made with Hennessy XO, is what you want - a well made, balanced, softer-style sazerac. There's also a peppermint twist ($19) featuring Maker's Mark mint bourbon, a smoked honey number ($18) made with honey and Talisker 12 and a creation where toffee nut syrup is mixed with Rittenhouse​ rye ($18).

The sazerac special editions aren't bad - the mint guy is even kind of great - but, I'm not sure if I see the point. Give me the original any day.

The charcuterie board.
The charcuterie board.Brendon Thorne
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A Swinging Cat signature definitely worth ordering is the Bienville ($18), a daiquiri of housemade poached pear and cinnamon juice, Angostura white rum and fresh lime. It's a smooth, even-keeled drop that's not as spice-heavy as feared. It's also wonderfully refreshing after a grilled, weapon of toastie​ that sandwiches smoked wagyu​, bush tomato chutney, and raclette​ ($14). Raclette, I herby dub thee Lord of the Melting Cheeses.  

If only the food at Subway smelled as good. Leaving the bar's cool dark and being slapped with fluorescent light and the sickly sweet odour of baked footlongs is not an enjoyable experience. Best hunker down with a Vieux Carre​ ($19) and wait for the sandwich artists to exit the building.

THE LOW-DOWN
Go for …
 a crash course in New Orleans' cocktails.
Stay for … the grilled raclette sandwich.
Drink … a classic sazerac.
And … there are some big bruts on the champagne list if you've got bankroll to finance.

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Callan BoysCallan Boys is editor of SMH Good Food Guide, restaurant critic for Good Weekend and Good Food writer.

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