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The Tamarind

15.5/20

Modern Asian$$$

Perched on a ridge next to Gardner's Falls in Maleny, it's difficult to rival the splendid views of the rainforest, but chef Daniel Jarrett gives diners plenty of reasons to redirect their gaze. His yin-yang approach to sparky Asian fare is evident in share-friendly dishes. Flavours, from pickled green papaya, dehydrated pineapple, mint and coriander on a pressed master stock-braised pork belly, to a Korean-inspired deboned kimchi and minced pork stuffed quail with a chilli paste and sherry vinegar sauce, might pack a punch but are always judiciously balanced. The subtlety of Moreton Bay bugs is not lost among black beans, braised shiitake, chestnut noodles and pork crackle in a pho (Asian broth). Crisp whole fish with a hot, sweet, sour sauce is high on wow factor - pick every morsel from the cheeks, wings and tail. Classic desserts are given a shake-up with a parfait rolled in toasted coconut, served with sticky black rice ice-cream, pandan meringues and raspberry chilli jam - a suitably high-note finale.

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