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The Terrace Restaurant

Good Food hat15/20

An elm-lined drive is the perfect introduction into the family Brown's (of Brown Brothers lineage) slice of paradise. Two years ago, they adopted this 1880s estate; late last year, they installed Simon Arkless (ex-Comme) in the kitchen. The appointment has served both well as Arkless gets to show off the full spectrum of his European education and his knack for invention. Grilled cuttlefish is a beautifully plated exercise in refined Spanish cuisine, served with a house-made merguez sausage, garlic confit and grilled Lombardo peppers. Roasted rack of pork finds its inspiration further north, atop Puy lentils with a complex sauce of juniper berries, parsley, shallots, cream and white wine vinegar. The highlight, though, is a main of rabbit and corn prepared two ways. roasted portions of meat, and a miniature pie of tender rabbit, leek, sweet prunes and glazed pastry. Desserts such as roasted figs with muscat syrup make good use of local supplies.

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