15.5/20
With a stunning makeover, the Fringe has never looked more glam. Stags' heads, hanging birdcages and groovy bookcase art with a main bar dedicated to dining reveal its new focus. A threesome of chilli caramel pork belly is a masterpiece: all melty and crunchy with a zingy Asian slaw; saffron arancini is fragrant from the speck with a silky sweet corn pop. Chicken schnitzel is tasty, but in a dry bun it's like eating the floor of a budgie's cage. Chef Hugh Mawter is a meat master, so rump it up.
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