The Sydney Morning Herald logo
Advertisement

The Union

The Union
The UnionSupplied

14/20

Contemporary$$

For locals in the know, or others with good navigational skills, The Union's a no-brainer. Who wouldn't want a neighbourhood haunt like this upstairs hideaway - bolstered by the cooking talent of Ross Dobson and Jane Jeffrey. Their rustic blackboard tapas menu offers the likes of crunchy, golden polenta chips with a bitey jalapeno mayo, juicy skewered hunks of grilled chicken with a garlicky cream, or a pile of just-right mussels, swaddled in a fresh tomato and spicy chorizo sauce with pearl couscous. Two sittings mean that the amenable, efficient staff move at a cracking pace through the tightly packed tables. But, strangely, you don't feel rushed or pressured; instead, the atmosphere hums with happy, chatty, eating people - from young 'uns to oldies - enjoying punchy, well-cooked, locally sourced fare in a comfortable, cheerfully makeshift-looking space. It's like a pop-up that isn't - with a sense of spontaneity tempered with enough culinary gravitas to guarantee the long haul.

Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.

Sign up

From our partners

Advertisement
Advertisement