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The Union

Contemporary$$

The problem with smallish share-plates is when they’re as good as this you can easily blow a $30 budget. Produce is fresh, seasonal, locally sourced: the meat platter, the goat’s curd on sweet roasted tomatoes, liberal splashes of good olive oil, stand-out wines from Mudgee and Orange (other restaurateurs please note). Lovely, clean flavours and clever touches abound on the ever-changing menu: plumped sultanas and wilted parsley bed pork and fennel chipolatas, a touch of sherry lifts light-as-air chocolate mousse. Decor is distressed industrial, service fast and enthusiastic. To hell with self-control.

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