12.5/20
Regulars - and there are a few - are greeted like long-lost relatives at this family-run Italian restaurant at the quieter river end of Merthyr Road. This far from Brunswick Street, New Farm feels almost suburban and so too does The Vine: welcoming, amiable with hearty portions and few pretensions. A modern room is split by a U-shaped bar but most punters opt for the pavement out front. Generous chunks of Moreton Bay bug inhabit a rich seafood risotto with roast pumpkin diffused invitingly throughout. A moist fillet of ocean trout sits upon a lemony mix of cannellini beans and cherry tomatoes, with battered zucchini flowers for crunch. More memorable, though, is a blend of cabbage, chorizo and pear that playfully lifts seared pork loin. Crushed pistachio adds a choc chip-like texture to a semifreddo made on real coffee. The Vine might not warrant a drive across town, but for locals you can see why it would be hard to go past.
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