The Wanderer

Like the cold seas in the poem from which this bar draws its name, the Wanderer is one of those little places you'll eventually stumble upon.

It's on a busy stretch of Elizabeth Street, jammed in between an anti-nuclear organisation's office and a Spanish restaurant with traffic whizzing past.

Sooner or later you're going to have driven or walked by enough times to finally stick your head in.

When you do, you'll find a narrow, cave-like bar stretching from a cosy front room through to a tiny bar, a slim hallway and a small beer garden out the back.

Its decorated like a good ol' Irish lounge room with a hint of hostel; postcards and photos on the walls, heavy timber bar tables, warm lighting and plenty of fiddle on the sound system.

Not surprisingly, the internationally flavoured bar is a pet project between three mates from three corners of the globe - Welshman Matt O'Neill, Irishman Eoghan Ryan and Texan American Jeff Bennett - who decided to blow their savings on a bar rather than a sports car. Or a ticket back home.

And, in a move to buck the trend in Sydney, they take reservations (hooray) however, on the Thursday night Bar hop visits, the place is rammed with people all angrily eyeing off the empty tables with ''reserved'' signs (boo).

One point to make straight up is that The Wanderer looks like a cute and cosy small bar but is more like a rough 'n' ready Irish pub on a small scale.

Don't come expecting the usual fine wines, top cocktails and meticulous service that we're spoilt with these days.

The wine glasses were filthy, our jug of cocktail was almost undrinkable and noisy trivia quickly took over the place.

From a handful of cruiseship-style cocktails, the jug of Gin Sunrise (gin, elderflower liqueur, orange and vanilla syrup, lemon, thyme, $30) was completely tasteless.

We sent it back thinking there was something missing but the returned product (which, I should note, was very graciously delivered) was exactly the same with a branch-size bunch of herbs added.

The house-infused rum made using an ever-changing secret recipe sounded promising but it had run out.

Luckily, the food saved the day. Fish tacos (3 for $18) were a highlight, vibrant and tender. A generously filled quesadilla ($14) was a nice mix of crunchy tortilla and gooey cheese and spice.

A 250-gram chimichurri porterhouse steak came on a board with chunky chips, watercress salad and horseradish creme fraiche ($20).

The best way to approach the Wanderer is to look at the nightly specials, part with a $20 note for a steak and glass of Trivento malbec (on Thursdays) or a tenner for some sliders and a cider (on Wednesdays), bring a group of friends and nestle up.

The bar's tiny size makes it very cosy and keeps things a nice level of rowdy.

You can't go too wrong with Dr Pilkington's Miracle Cider ($8) and Vale Ale IPA ($8) on tap and there are always a few beers making a guest appearance, like an Angry Man Pale Ale ($8).

If you're expecting to wander into a refined bar, you'll be disappointed. If you're expecting a mini knockabout pub, you won't be.

You'll love it if … you want an easy, fun night with a few friends.
You'll hate it if … you're expecting good cocktails and wine.
Go for … Trivento malbec, fish tacos, nightly specials.