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The Way to San Jose

Larissa Dubecki
Larissa Dubecki

The Way to San Jose has a dazzling bespoke fitout.
The Way to San Jose has a dazzling bespoke fitout.Angela Wylie

Italian$$

Where and what

Don't ask me why it's called The Way to San Jose. I don't have a clue, although just like the upbeat Burt Bacharach/Hal David song, this stylish suburban eatery is pretty much guaranteed to deliver a burst of happiness. It boasts a dazzling bespoke fitout that nonetheless fits comfortably into the McKinnon 'hood, a great team of waiters, food with an Italian soul and some fine pizza. It's all here.

Where to sit

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Classic: Ruggedly puffy capricciosa pizza.
Classic: Ruggedly puffy capricciosa pizza.Angela Wylie

Orio Randi, of artisan woodwork shop Arteveneta, opened The Way to San Jose with partner Emma Clarke towards the end of 2012, and the timber-loving fitout showcases the work he's long performed in the service of the Melbourne hospitality industry (Izakaya Den, Neapoli, DOC and many, many more). Even the American oak floor is a thing of beauty; the long bar, decorated with sunny retro tiles of white and yellow, features high wooden seats for two, and the rear room is no consolation prize, with an indoor-outdoor feel, white-painted brick and a view of the open kitchen.

Randi and Clarke, who runs the floor with quiet aplomb, imposed a patina of age on their new baby, so vintage lights dangle in clusters, and the windows are stained glass. A fun-loving vinyl soundtrack (it's been a while since I heard Abba) makes light work of a frenetic Saturday-night service.

Drink

Mostly Victorian and a little bit Italian, the wallet-friendly wine list will have something for everyone.

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Eat

There are pizzerias, and there are places that do a mean pizza as a part of their native Italian repertoire. The Way to San Jose is in the latter camp, with a simple, fuss-free menu that captures Italian food's essential brio. Take the starter of globe artichokes: fried, so the ''petals'' bloom into pull-apart things of crunchy-salty loveliness, served with suckable strips of lardo (pig fat), rocket and mashed potato. A tumble of fried calamari is non-greasily addictive; the pizza is ruggedly puffy around the extremities, boldly charry and with no funny toppings business - the capricciosa is as classic as Michelangelo's David. Pasta? Gnocchi doesn't disappoint, with a gorgonzola sauce fielding correct weight in blue cheese funk. Desserts are the usual blockbusters: creme brulee, tiramisu, gelato - or what the hell, go the Nutella calzone.

When to go

Tuesday to Sunday, 3pm-late (full menu starts at 5pm).

Who's there

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Half of McKinnon, by the look of it.

Why bother?

The Way to San Jose is paved with good intentions and fine execution.

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Larissa DubeckiLarissa Dubecki is a writer and reviewer.

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