Three Blue Ducks

A bunch of blokes into boarding, boardies and beer is the back story to this Bronte neighbourhood eatery. On the surface, though, it’s more like a good cafe where, come dinnertime, the co-owners’ serious kitchen talent comes to the fore, dressing up the food but not the dress code. There’s no ponce, no tortured plating, just an emphasis on excellent produce, usually without too much done to it. Snapper ceviche stars silken fish but we’d have liked more citrus zing. Duck braised in master stock, then pan-fried to crisp the lacquered skin, is a triumph only equalled by the gorgeous chilli jam that partners it. Wallaby is pink and well rested, the delicate meat perked up with pickled grapes and labna. Smoked potato ice-cream isn’t nearly as weird as it sounds, its creamy texture creating marvels with lemon verbena granita and chocolate ‘cookie’ rubble.

And … Breakfast and lunch menus are also worth exploring.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Casual, fine dining pedigree.
Best bit Organic and sustainable.
Worst bit Too casual for some?