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Three Swallows Hotel

12.5/20

Contemporary$$

In Sydney's blue-collar heartland, big isn't big, it's humongous. This sprawling, revamped watering hole upgraded its bistro menu in August and is a busy place even on early weekdays. The portions are more for the famished than the peckish and a $35 seafood platter is easily enough for two. The combo of fresh oysters, grilled prawns, smoked salmon, fingers of beer-battered flathead, soft-shell crab in tempura and mussels with salsa topping hits the spot. I would like to see Willie Mason finish the mountain of smoky barbecued pork ribs, salad and chips - or maybe I wouldn't. Pass the bill and stretcher me to the car, please.

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